Kenmoreメーカー1625の使用説明書/サービス説明書
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Kenmore INSTRUCTIONS ZIG • ZAG SEWING MACHINE MODEL 1430/1431/1625/1641/1940/1941 59982.
TABLE OF CONTENTS .............................................. , = 1 4. KNOWING YOUR SEWING MACHINE Identifying Parts ................................................. 2, 3 Installing Machine ............................................... 4, 5 Converting to Free-arm Sewing .
_1. _ KNOWING YOUR MACHINE _ FRONT VIEW @ @ @ @ ®. @ @ @ @ @ ® @ (Flat-bed type) 2.
BACK VIEW (Model 1430, 1940) !625, ! 1641, 19412 only) (-_odel 19412 only) (Flat-bed type) 3.
INSTALLING MACHINE (Free-armtype) 1. To install the machine in cabinet, position machine head on cabinet platform so that holes on bottom of machine match those on boards. Insert washers and screws and tighten into place. (Fig. 1) 2. A separate base and cover is available to carry the machine when needed.
INSTALLING MACHINE (Flat bed type) 1. Loosen the two hinge screws under holes in the rear edge of the machine bed. 2. Raise hinge pins in the cabinet or case. Slip machine head onto pins. 3. Tighten hinge screws securely. 4, Push the speed control plug onto three-prong connector under the bed plate.
CONVERTING TO FREE-ARM SEWING ° Remove the base from the machine by pushing the release button (if applicable) and pulling the base to the left. (Fig. 1, 2) 2. To replace the base, simply slide it along the free arm to its original position. (Fig. 1) Note: Base cannot be removed or replaced unless shuttle cover is closed.
WINDING THE BOBBIN , , 3. 4. Release clutch by pulling hand wheel or turning clutch knob toward you as shown in Fig. 1. Draw thread from spool through bobbin winder tension disc as shown. Pull end of thread through hole in bobbin as shown. Place bobbin onto bobbin winder shaft with end of thread coming from the top of the bobbin.
THREADING THE BOBBIN CASE 1. Remove base front cover by push- ing the release button on the left side. Open the shuttle cover. 2. Raise needle to its highest position by rotating hand wheel toward you. 3. To remove bobbin case from shut- tle, pull open latch of bobbin case.
THREADING OF TOP THREAD Place thread on spool pin as shown with thread coming from the back of the spool. Draw thread through the top thread guide. Holding the spool stationary with right hand, pull the end of the thread between the tension discs as shown.
ADJUSTING TOP TENSIONS Probably the most important control on your machine is this one that regulates your top thread tension. It consists of discs between which the thread passes. The pressure on these discs is regulated by turning the dial. The higher the number, the tighter the tension.
ADJUSTING BOBBIN TENSIONS Bobbin tension requires adjusting less frequently than the upper thread tension. If the stitch is satisfactory but the seam is puckered, it may be necessary to loosen the tension on both the top and bottom threads. Be sure to balance them as indicated on Page 10.
CHECKING TENSIONS The easiest way to check tensions is to sew a medium zig zag stitch on the fabric you will be using. Use the appropriate type of thread and needle. Use different colors of thread on the bobbin and upper spool. Sew a line of zig zag stitches The bobbin thread should not snow on the top of the fabric.
STITCH WIDTH CONTROL This control regulates the width of the stitch you select. THE HIGHER THE NUMBER*THE WIDER THE STITCH. You may vary your zigzag stitch width by adjusting this control to the setting you desire. This control must be on Red Dot in order to do straight stitching.
REVERSE STITCH CONTROL': It is best to begin and end seams with a few stitches taken in reverse, This is called back tacking. Back tacking fastens the ends of the seams firmly and preventsrave!ing. _ : • _ :_: When reverse stitching is needed, turn the control clockwise and: hold_ there dur!ng sewing, The fabric w!ll.
SPECIAL STITCH DIAL There are certain types of utility stitches you will use often in your home sewing. This control enables you to just dial the stitch you need for the task at hand. All stitches printed in red on the dial must be sewn with the Special Stitch Modifier set at the Red Dot.
BLIND STITCH AND OVERCAST STRETCH STITCH "V"V" _ Blind hems are made by using the setting shown above with the Stitch Modifier set on the Red Dot.
OTHER ADJUSTMENTS OF MACHINE IN SEWING In addition to the obvious controls of your machine, there are other small regulators and controls to aid you in using your sewing machine. PRESSURE REGULATOR Push down the outer ring of the pressure regulator. This will release the pressure on the presser foot.
1R 3 FEED DOG CONTROL There are a few times when you want to control the feeding of the fabric yourself. Remove the base cover from the base. Pull down the feed dog control or turn to the left as shown in Fig. 1. The feed dogs will drop. You may then determine the movement of the fabric yourself.
NEEDLE PLATE INSERTS (Free-arm type) You are provided with two needle plate inserts: A. Needle plate with wide oval hole for all zigzag stitching. B. Needle plate with round hole for regular straight stitching and straight stretch stitch sewing. CHANGING NEEDLE PLATE INSERTS 1.
i MULTI PURPOSE NEEDLE PLATE (Flat-bed type) This multi purpose needle plate pro- vides a small round hole for straight stitching and a wide oval hole for zig zag and decorative stitching. CHANGING MULTI PURPOSE NEEDLE PLATE 1. Raise needle to its highest position and raise presser foot.
ACCESSORIES NEEDLES Use KENMORE needles. The size of the needle should conform with the size of the thread and both should be suitable to the fabric (See next page). Never use a bent needle or one with a blunt point. Fig. 1. shows you the exact length of your needle.
NEEDLE, THREAD AND FABRIC CHART O r ).
PRESSER FEET SUPER-HIGH BAR TYPE Simply drop the presser foot lock and slip the foot away from the presser bar. To aid you in the placement of the presser foot, the presser foot lever can raise the foot beyond the normal "'up" position.
BUTTONHOLE ATTACHMENT You will find the following parts in your Attachment Box: 1. Cover Plate with pinion gear in the center. 1 Buttonhole adapter to be used instead of base cover When button- hole attachment is used. (Free-arm type only). 3. A set of 2 templates is furnished with each attachment.
Now that you are familiar with the controls on your machine and with the accessories provided for the machine, you are ready to start to sew with your new Kenmore sewing machine.
GARMENT CONSTRUCTION STITCHES .... STRAIGHT STITCHING Set your machine just as shown in the illustration in order to straight stitch. it is important each dial have the following settings.
TURNING A SQUARE CORNER To turn a square corner 5/8" from the fabric edge, stop stitching with the needle tip piercing the fabric, when reaching the cornering guide as shown. Raise the presser foot, turn fabric. New stitching line will align with 5/8" seam guide on side of needle plate.
STRETCH STITCHING The stitches shown below are all for use with stretch and knit fabrics. These are special stitches built in to the machine for your quick selection. • k II / ,,,> // / // / // % J% (I)®®®®® 1. Straight Stretch 2. Rick _ Rack Stretch 3.
RICK-RACK STRETCH STITCHING .... SETTINGS Special Stitch Dial - wN_=-" Stitch Width Control - 1 to 4 • Stitch Length Control - 6 Special Stitch Modifier - White Dot Zigzag Presser Foot Zigzag Needle Plate Use this special stitch for al!-purpose heavy duty sewing of stretch fabrics: Sew as you do a 'regular plain zigzag seam.
30 OVERCAST STRETCH .......... STITCHING SETTINGS Special Stitch Dial. "VV WW Stitch Width Control - 4 Stitch Length Control - 6 Special Stitch Modifier. White Dot Zigzag Presser Foot Zigzag Needle Plate This is the same type of stitch used by the garment industry in making sports- wear.
After the basic construction of your garment is finished, there are still many finishing touches to be done. To aid your completion of your garment, the Kenmore has been designed to do the following tasks that formerly had to be done by hand. BUTTONHOLE MAKING (Model 1625 only) SETTINGS Special Stitch Dia!- w_]-.
3. Turn the control to "R" stitching _ back to the beginning of the button- hole. _ The speed with which the control is turned determines the number of stitches at the end of the buttonhole_ The slowerthe control is turned while sewing, the more stitches foimed.
BUTTONHOLE MAKING Always make a practice buttonhole on a scrap of fabric you plan to use. Try the buttonhole with the button you will use. Use an interfacing between the layers of fabric - tissue paper can be used and torn away after the stitching. For heavier weight fabrics, loosen your top tension slightly and use a wider stitch w{dth setting.
_4 .. . , , , • Fig. 5 4. Pull guide plate all the way forward so that guide pin is at S. This will enable you to start at one end of the buttonhole. Drop guide plate into place over gear on cover plate. o Pick up bobbin thread through guide plate by turning hand wheel and drawing thread to back of machine.
BLIND HEMMING SETTINGS Special Stitch Dial - WWW Stitch Width Control - 2 to 3 Stitch Length Control - 12 to 8 Special Stitch Modifier - Red Dot Zigzag Presser Foot or Edgestitcher if available Zigzag Needle Plate 1. Finish edge of hem anyway you desire.
°4 o SATIN STITCHING SETTINGS Special Stitch Dial . w_l_= Stitch Width Control - 1 to 4 Stitch Length Control - Red Zone Special Stitch Modifier - Red Dot Satin Stitch Foot Zigzag Needle Plate Closely spaced zigzag stitches are ca|led satin stitches.
ZIPPER APPLICATION SETTINGS Special Stitch Dial - w_l_..=- Stitch Width Control - Red Dot Stitch Length Control - 12 to 10 Special Stitch Modifier - Red Dot Zipper Foot Straight Stitch Needle Plate REGULAR ZIPPER The foot is adjustable for use on the right or left side of the needle when sewing the regular type of zipper.
38 MENDING SETTINGS Special Stitch Dial -.V_._ Stitch Width Control - 4 Stitch Length Control - Red Zone Special Stitch Modifier - Red Dot Zigzag Presser Foot Zigzag Needle Plate To repair a straight or three-cornered tear, position the tear under the needle in such a waythat the stitching catches both sides of the tear.
BUTTON SEWING SETTINGS Special Stitch Dial - ww_=-._ Feed Dogs - Down Zigzag Presser Foot Zigzag Needle Plate 1. Align two holes of button with slot of presser foot and lower foot to hold the button securely. 2, Turn hand wheel manually until needle point is just above button, 3.
FREE-ARM SEWING (Free-arm type only) This sewing machine can be used like a flat bed machine, but easily converts to free arm machine by removing the base. The free arm enables you to sew tubular types of pieces more easily. Just slip the sleeve or pants leg on the free arm as shown above.
3. CHECKING PERFORMANCE PROBLEMS WHAT TO DO J:_.
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CARING FOR THE MACH NE ................................................................................................................................................ CLEANING AND OILING Fig. 1 Cleaning the feed dogs with a brush. To insure the best possible operation of your machine, it is necessary to keep the essential parts clean at all times.
OILING UNDER ARM COVER PLATE Remove arm cover plate to oil points indicated in top of machine head. To remove cover plate, insert a screw driver into the spacing between arm casting and top cover plate and lift the cover plate as illustrated below.
OILING UNDERSIDE (Free_armtype) Tilt maqhine head back and remove bottom cover to oil points indicated on underside of machine. To remove bottom cover, remove screws (A), (B), (C), (D) and (E) as shown below.
OILING UNDERSIDE (Flat-bed type) Tilt machine head back to oil points indicated on underside of machine. < OILING IN FACE cOVER PLATE Swing hinged face cover plate open and oil points indicated in illustration.
PART LIST 47.
PARTS LIST All parts listed herein may be ordered from any Sears, Roebuck and Co. or Simpsons- Sears Limited store or service center. WHEN ORDERING REPAIR PARTS, ALWAYS GIVE THE FOLLOWING INFORMATION : 1. PART NUMBER 2. PART DESCRIPTION 3. MODEL NUMBER 4.
SEWING MACHINE Now that you have purchased your Sewing Machine, should a need ever' exist for repair parts or service, simply contact any Sears Service Center and most Seam, Roebuck and Co. or Simpsons-Seam Limited Stores. Be sure to provide all pertinent factswhen you call or visit.
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